In case you missed it, the newly opened Oak Crest Tavern on Oakland Ave got a glowing review in the Shepherd Express this week. Here is the review:
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The Shepherd Express, 6/27/07
by: Jeff Beutner
The Oakcrest Tavern is much more than the name implies. Yes, they call it a tavern, and when the place is empty, it certainly looks like one. But even though one side is devoted to a large bar with a top constructed of tropical hardwood boards, the accompanying flat-panel televisions and requisite beers only tell half the story.
The other side of the room serves as a carpeted dining area, with an inviting stone fireplace taking center stage. Outdoor tables shaded by Pilsner Urquell umbrellas are also available. When the place is busy—which is often—you will see that Shorewood residents tend to favor the restaurant side of Oakcrest Tavern
Oakcrest is located in the space once occupied by the seafood eatery Red Rock, though the interior has been completely redone. This is the first solo project for owner Rick Schmidt, whose diverse menu reflects his extensive experience in restaurant management and consulting.
As inviting as the interior is, the outdoor tables are the summertime place to be. Try a plate of onion rings ($4.95) for a starter. They are medium-sized, between a haystack cut and thick slabs of onion, dipped in a buttermilk batter before they are deep-fried. Normally I shun guacamole at restaurants without Mexican names, but Oakcrest's guacamole ($6.95) counters that logic. Though it is processed to a smooth puree, this distinctive guac still brings the tartness of tomatillos. The fresh and crisp flour tortilla chips add to the taste. Another good starter is the tenderloin tips ($9.95), two skewers of beef seared with rosemary, along with a horseradish and sour cream dipping sauce.
The menu complements the casual decor with entrée-sized salads and many sandwiches. Entrees are split between "Tavern Favorites," which are served all day, and a roster available only after 5 p.m. Options include mussels, grilled tuna, cognac chicken and even balsamic marinated tofu—not the typical fare of a British pub! Just try the shrimp risotto ($13.95) in a wide bowl, the short-grained Arborio rice bathed in a tomato cream sauce with a yellow hue nearly of saffron. Grated Parmesan cheese, pieces of asparagus and red and green bell peppers fill out the meal.
The hanger steak ($15.95) provides a reason in and of itself to visit the Oakcrest. When ordered medium-rare, the aging of the meat makes the center tender, almost silky in texture. The meat, grilled and sliced, is topped with chimichurri, a condiment of parsley, herbs and olive oil that is an everyday sight in Argentina. (The menu mistakenly attributes it to Spain.) This is a fine chimichurri in complete harmony with the flavor of the beef. A pile of salty fries and a cup of coleslaw accompany.
The Oakcrest navigates a fine line between tavern and restaurant. The setting is casual, yet the wood paneling implies elegance. The food at times aspires to fine dining, though the prices indicate otherwise. The restaurant, which offers the usual Friday fish fry, clearly targets the neighborhood crowd, but the risotto and hanger steak speak out to a larger audience. Regardless of which style you prefer, this is a fine new addition to Shorewood.
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